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Fine Dining Without Reservations

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GOD WILLING, 2013 will go down in history as the year chefs emerged from the haze of fat-forward cooking, rubbed the lard from their eyes and discovered all the flavor they were missing. Enlarge Image Close 'EGGS AND CHEESE'In place of the traditional, cholesterol-laden sauce, the pasta is cloaked in a velvety white-bean purée. 'BACON' Crisp crescents of toasted garlic lend the texture and savory depth typically provided by guanciale, a fatty, unsmoked Italian bacon. Anyone who has logged time tableside at America's trendier restaurants can attest to the full-throttle bender on which chefs have escorted diners in recent years. The cooking aesthetic I'm talking about is summed up quite...

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